![]() Add water, thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper and stir until it returns to the boil.Add brandy and stir for 30 seconds, then add wine and stir until it boils and thickens slightly, stirring well to remove any bits that are stuck to the bottom or sides of the pan (that’s where all the flavour is).Add flour to the pan and stir for a minute or so, scraping the base of the pan well.Working in batches, add chicken pieces to the pan and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, turning so they’re coloured all over.Using a slotted spoon, remove onions, mushroom and speck from the pan and set aside.Meanwhile, cut chicken into 10 pieces (wings, drumsticks, thighs and 4 pieces of breast). ![]() Stir in mushrooms, garlic and a good pinch of salt, and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, for 5-10 minutes, until mushrooms are tender and give off some juices.Add speck and onions and cook for 5-10 minutes, stirring often, until all lightly coloured.Melt butter in a large saucepan or cast-iron baking dish over medium heat.If you can’t get tiny pickling onions, use small spring onions. 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley.Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper,.And drink whatever wine you cook it in, I went Alsatian with Arthur Metz pinot gris. I prefer white wine and like to cook and serve it in a bright cast-iron baking dish. ![]() In Jura they use the wonderful vin jaune (and local morels), while in Alsace it’s usually riesling. It’s most often associated with Burgundy but made all over France using whatever white or red wine is local to the region. Literally ‘rooster in wine’, it’s a classic braise of chicken, onion, mushrooms and speck, sometimes thickened with the chicken’s blood (but not in my case). This was one of the first French dishes I ever cooked, and it seemed terribly sophisticated in the early ‘80s.
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